Posts Tagged ‘nut’
Custom Electric Guitar Making – How to make and fit a brass guitar nut to an electric guitar
How to make and fit a brass guitar nut. Custom designed nut to classic fender strat radius fretboard. Hand crafted not machine cut this part of the DVD shows what is involved and the Tools used to make a custom nut for a guitar. The gold plating and polishing are covered on previous sections of the DVD and there’s lots more information in the accompanying booklet.
A COMPLETE CUSTOM ELECTRIC GUITAR BUILD – is available for worldwide shipping from:-
www.ACDguitars.com
www.amazon.com
www.filmbaby.com
www.amazon.co.uk
ROCK ON BROTHERS (and sisters…)
Duration : 0:5:2
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Guitar Tuning Problems? Here is a quick trick to help – Cyberfret.com
http://www.cyberfret.com/gear-tech/
Kahler vs. Floyd Rose – Part 1 of 3 – Tremolo Comparison
If you think my videos are helpful, please consider making a small donation through my website: http://www.dmometalguitar.com. It’s hard to cover every single aspect regarding the differences between Kahler and Floyd Rose on YouTube. This document covers most aspects regarding both tremolo systems. The issues below cover all cam-based Kahler models (such as Hybrid and 2300) and the original Floyd Rose made by Schaller.
(1) TUNING STABILITY
Kahler: Kahlers stay in tune very well with dive bombs, but the strings go out of tune after bends, which is a big disadvantage compared to a Floyd Rose. For example, if you play a bend on the 3rd string, the 3rd string itself will go flat after the bend. One way to bring it back to pitch is to move the tremolo bar downward (as if you were playing a regular dive bomb). This creates a noticeable limitation because the player has to worry about the tremolo bar if he/she plays a lot of bends and vibratos. The higher the bend, the more the string goes out of tune. The lighter the bend, the less it goes out of tune. So, if you play very light bends, this problem is not that serious — but it’s still a problem. My “Kahler Tremolo – Tuning & Bending Problem” video covers the issue in detail. Other than that, uming there’s nothing wrong with the locking nut, Kahler has excellent tuning stability.
Kahlers normally go out of tune with pull-ups, but I was able to solve the problem with a simple and inexpensive solution: A small portion of lip balm ChapStick should be applied underneath each string where it touches the cam. ChapStick reduces the friction against the cam and makes the string slide back to its default position after a pull-up (assuming nothing is wrong with the locking nut).
Floyd Rose: Because of its double-locking system, no other tremolo system beats a Floyd Rose in terms of tuning stability. You can dive, pull up and play extremely high bends, and your guitar will stay in perfect pitch — as long as there are no problems with the locking nut and knife edges. Some Floyds go out of tune will pull-ups because of flat knife edges (see explanation below). A portion of ChapStick between the mounting studs and knife edges usually solves the problem.
(2) SET UP
Kahler: Because the saddles are adjustable in all six directions (up, down, left, right, front and back), Kahler has unlimited setup possibilities. Most notably, like Fender’s tremolo system, you can adjust the action of each string individually. Some players don’t necessarily set up string action following the fretboard radius. This is a huge advantage if, for example, the player wants to raise only the 5th and 6th strings as they’re the ones most likely to buzz. With most bridges, like Gibson’s Tune-O-Matic, if players want to adjust the action of a single string, they end up raising the action of almost all other strings because the entire bridge moves from the side of each of the two adjustable studs.
Floyd Rose: It’s possible to adjust string action individually on a Floyd Rose by inserting shim(s) underneath the saddle, but Kahler makes this adjustment a lot easier. You have to unlock the string, loosen the string, loosen the saddle, insert the shim(s) and tighten the saddle again. You have to go through a similar process to adjust intonation. It takes more work, but because set-up is not something you’ll constantly change, the extra steps are not that big of a deal (except if you’re a luthier and have tons of guitars to set up on a deadline).
Any person setting up a Floyd Rose should be very careful with the knife edges — the two rounded edges on the bridge that sit against the two mounting studs. To adjust action, you should never rotate the mounting studs under friction. The best way is to loosen all strings first and apply ChapStick before rotating the studs. More experienced players might also consider removing the entire bridge before rotating the studs. It’s tedious to do this a few times until getting the action right but it’s safe.
(3) FEEL
Kahler: When the player moves the tremolo bar, only the cam (or cylindrical base) rotates. Because of that, Kahler has an incredible soft feel. No other tremolo system has such a butter-like feel like the Kahler system.
Floyd Rose: Because the entire bridge moves when you use the tremolo bar, Floyd Rose has a stiffer feel. Yet, some players prefer Floyd Rose’s stiffer feel than Kahler’s soft feel.
(4) FIXED BRIDGE
Kahler: Some Kahler models, such as the Hybrid one, have a small allen screw that can turn the bridge into a fixed one. Players can use the Hybrid model either as a tremolo or fixed bridge.
Floyd Rose: It’s possible to turn a Floyd Rose into a fixed bridge by:
a. Installing a device called Tremol-no;
b. Blocking the back of the bridge with a piece of wood or something;
c. Installing stoppers in the spring area.
(Continued on Part 2)
Duration : 0:7:53
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How to change guitar strings with locking tuners
How to change guitar strings with locking tuners.
TIP: Use the graphite on the nut!
Duration : 0:5:27
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Electric Guitar [see vid. notes for guitar setup/adjustment]
This site should put a smile on your face if your looking for affordable stuff:
http://www.rondomusic.com/
I forget the price, but these new ones are a steal at about $120. I had to make some adjustments so it was more playable however; usually higher priced instruments have this done already [but usually any guitar needs a bit of fixup or adjustment in some way when you get it]. The nut slots had to be deepened slightly, and the bridge saddles had to be adjusted for string intonation and string height. I think they send a hex-allen key wrench with the guitar for the bridge saddles. But for the nut adjustment, unless you are handy with epoxy or super glue, only let a experienced person work on that since its a critical thing, a hair too deep and you have buzzing. Here is a method if you insist on doing it yourself; I made a small acoustic guitar and this is how it is done:
Take a string and fret it on the first fret. Now notice the height of the string above the metal of the second fret (considering the bridge saddles are adjusted to the height desired:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zd5DbChTzoM&NR=1 ), then this should be about the height of the string above the metal of the first fret when played open: when the nut saddle/slot is adjusted correctly.
The tool to use for the nut slot adjments is a very thin files or simply an exacto saw. First do some tests with your files and/or saw with some scrap pieces of wood, plastic or bone. With the saw you’ll have to slightly turn or rotate/tilt it (left and right of the blade) very slowly for thicker strings. taking your time to the utmost degree here folks, now matter how long it takes go slow; it takes very little pressure, if at all, on the saw. Also, tilt the length of the saw blade about 5 degrees down towards the peg/tuning head to ensure that the strings scale length does not get longer…it should begin right at the start of the freboard. Slightly make the slot deeper and wider as needed, put the string in the slot and tune the string back up while applying some pressure to the string behind the nut. Check the width and depth of the slot, and repeat till the string is seated properly. Here’s an example of nut replacement and slotting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmjkC-6nOm4&feature=related
P90 pickups are basically have the sound of somewhere between a regular Fender strat pickup and a regular Gibson humbucker pickup. My guitar has an extra pickup cavity area underneath the pickgaurd and it looks big enough for a humbucker if I ever wanted to mod it.
I also scraped up enough money and got my nephew a short-scale bass. The neck has a nice feel to it and is easilly playable for anyone who just doesn’t want to get into 6-string guitars. The scale is about only about 30 inches, this is also similar to Hofner bass scale that Paul McCartney uses. Paul used to play guitar before bass, so I guess he needed a bass that somewhat felt like a regular guitar.
For an amp., check out musiciansfriend, etc.: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/
You can also check out music123: http://www.music123.com/Default.aspx?source=ZWWRWXX1
Also, you can check your local guitar and music shops for some great deals.
Guitar pots are sometimes a bit finiky, sometimes from just sitting around they get “gummy” or staticy, so dont be a big crybaby… most guitars are loaded with dings and dents, and awesome stickers and graphiti, and are cherished. Here’s a link about knob/pot repair: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZzkwI9ysy4&feature=user
About setting up string length and intonation:
Take the high (thinnest) e string and then measure from the nut to the center of the 12th fret.. now double this value and this is the point where that string should make contact with the bridge saddle. As the strings get thicker, the saddle is place further from the nut since a thicker string has more tension in it when you fret the string which results in a higher note.. and the placement or compensation of the saddle will decrease the note to its proper value.
To begin string intonation, you can initially move each succesive saddle, as the strings get thicker, about 1/32 inch back from the previous strings location.
How to check intonation: First tune up the open strings. Fret the 12th fret of the sting. To make things easy, consider the 12th fret as a new scale or nut. If the note is lower than expected, then the length of the string from the nut (here the 12th fret) to the saddle is too long since longer strings mean reduced frequency (ie. lower note). To correct this, simply shorten the string by bringing the saddle closer to the nut position. You must now retune the open string since you have changed the length and therefore the tone of it. Check the intonation again. If the 12fret note is higher in sound than expected, then simply do the opposite of what was mentioned.
I was in a rediculous mood when I made this vid.
Duration : 0:3:24
